Eye makeup isn't one-size-fits-all, especially considering thedifferent eye shapes out there. For example, how you do a cat eye on almond-shaped eyes will differ from how you do it on hooded eyes. And when it comes todownturned eyes—where the outer corners are lower than the inner corners—we've learned a thing or two about what makeup looks and application techniques are most flattering (plus those that are less so).
While there are no hard rules to applying mascara, eyeliner, or eyeshadow, if you're looking to accentuate your eyes with a viral TikTok trend or some beauty know-how, you've come to the right place. After all, we believe all eye shapes are beautiful—especially when you have tips for accentuating their natural shape.
Ahead, we tapped professional makeup artists Jasmine Ferreira, Keri Blair, and Melissa Hernandez to get their best makeup tips for downturned eyes.
Meet the expert
- Jasmine Ferreira is a makeup artist and Lancôme's Director of Makeup Artistry Education.
- Keri Blair is a makeup artist and Senior National Artist at MAC Cosmetics.
- Melissa Hernandez is a celebrity makeup artist. Her clients include Olivia Rodrigo, Lili Reinhart, and Lara Condor.
How to Apply Mascara on Downturned Eyes
We're starting with mascara because yes, it matters. "Use a lengthening mascara and keep mascara more focused on the top lashes [and] in the center, as opposed to the outer corner lashes," recommends Ferreira. "This will draw the eye to the long lashes at the center and create a lift."
For best results, she suggests using a formula that lifts and curls. "Curling and lengthening for downturned eyes is important because it gives the illusion of bigger eyes and more lifted eyes, also making eyes appear wider," Ferreira explains. Her product pick? Lancôme's Lash Îdole Mascara.
We also love Thrive Causemetics Liquid Lash Extensions Mascara, Ilia's Limitless Lash Mascara, and Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Volumizing and Lengthening Mascara.
How to Apply Eyeliner on Downturned Eyes
Try Puppy Eyeliner
ICYMI: Puppy eyeliner offers an alternative look to the traditional cat eye. It consists of doing the opposite of the cat eye—instead of winging your liner upward toward the tail of your brows, you wing it slightly downward to follow the natural shape of your eyes. "I'm a fan of [it] because it's all about embracing your natural shape and accentuating it," says Ferreira.
Interestingly, puppy liner-adjacent makeup looks have been around for a century, adds Blair. "If you research looks from various decades, especially the 20s and 30s, you'll notice that by placing some weight near the outer edge of the lower lash line, you can create beautiful makeup looks." Blair references 1920s actresses Clara Bow, Estelle Taylor, and Irene Delroy. "Their makeup accented the slight downturn of their eyes and gave them a dreamy innocence," she points out.
Use Dark Eyeshadow on Lower Lash Line
For those looking to create that lift, there are many ways to do so. "One of my favorite ways to accentuate downturned eyes using minimal effort is by applying a dark brown eyeshadow along the lower lash line and smoking it out toward the tail of the brow," says Hernandez. "This technique creates the illusion of a cat eye." In fact, this is what she typically does for her client Sydney Sweeney, who has downturned eyes. Our fave dark eyeshadows for downturned eyes, and in general, include Jones Road The Best Eyeshadow and MAC Satin Eyeshadow.
Apply Liner From the Outside In
Ferreira adds that another makeup tip for downturned eyes is applying liner from the outer eye corner—straight out and then upward to create the lift, and back in, creating a small triangle. From there, she says to fill in the triangle, keeping the color concentrated on the outer lash line as opposed to the entire lash line. We're huge fans of NYX Epic Wear Liquid Liner—which lasts for hours. Don't knock drugstore beauty until you've tried it!
How to Apply Eyeshadow on Downturned Eyes
For an eye makeup look that is simple yet modern, Blair likes to have the right products handy. "Use a small, dense brush and a darker eyeshadow or soft kohl pencil," she says. We recommend something like MAC 219 Synthetic Pencil Brush and Maybelline Tattoo Studio Eyeliner in Smokey Brown. "Start your application at the outer part of your bottom lash line and gently create a heavier line or drop shadow, and work the remaining shadow along the lash line towards the nose, creating a slight taper as you smudge your line," Blair instructs.
To add more weight to the look, she says to wrap the shadow around the outer quarter of the top lash line and follow the natural shape of your eye. "The darker and thicker your line, the more intensity you will bring to your eye shape," Blair says. Then, counterbalance the look using a soft, fleshy tone from the lid to the crease of your eye. Use a medium-intensity shadow in your crease, applying from the inner corner of the eye and then blending toward the outer corner.
